Italy Sandwich & Deli Guide

Napoli Β· Campania

Best Sandwiches & Delis in Naples

17 places for Naples' street food: pizza a portafoglio and pizza fritta, the fried cuoppo, the cuzzetiello and the city's historic salumerie.

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πŸ• Pizza a Portafoglio & Pizza Fritta Guide β†’

Naples eats its pizza on the move. Pizza a portafoglio ('wallet pizza') is a small pizza folded in four and wrapped in paper. Pizza fritta is a half-moon of dough stuffed with ricotta, ciccioli, provola and tomato, then deep-fried until it puffs up. These are the historic counters.

🍀 Friggitorie & Cuoppo Guide β†’

The cuoppo is a paper cone full of fried treats. 'Di terra' (from the land) means potato crocchè, arancini, pasta frittatine and zeppoline of fried dough. 'Di mare' (from the sea) means anchovies, squid and prawns. Here are the city's best friggitorie.

πŸ₯– Panini, Salumerie & Taralli Guide β†’

The Neapolitan 'marenna' (snack) is a roll stuffed by the salumiere with ricotta and cicoli, provola, salame or friarielli. Its big brother is the cuzzetiello: the hollowed-out heel of a loaf of pane cafone, filled with ragΓΉ, genovese or parmigiana. Plus the city's famous lard-and-pepper taralli.

Naples sandwich survival tips

  • Pizza a portafoglio is folded in four: hold it upright and lean forward so the sauce doesn't drip on your shoes.
  • Many shops close on Sunday and some salumerie close on Thursday afternoons ('giovedΓ¬ mezza giornata').
  • Order a cuoppo 'di terra' or 'di mare' for fried land snacks or seafood, or just say 'misto'.
  • Don't drive into the centro storico. It's a ZTL with cameras. Use the metro, funiculars and your feet.
  • New here? Read what pizza fritta and pizza a portafoglio are.