Mordi e Vai

The story

After decades as a butcher, Sergio Esposito opened this stall in the Testaccio market to put Rome's 'fifth quarter' cooking into a roll. His family carries on: the star is the allesso di scottona - slow-braised beef brisket - often with bitter chicory, in a crusty roll dipped in broth. Meatballs, tongue in green sauce and beef 'alla picchiapò' are just as good.